ModaLisboa Singular | Lisboa Fashion Week - Day 3 & Day 4

Hello___,

Didn't I tell you it wouldn't take me long to write you the second letter? Well here it is! Guess where the fashion show on the 3rd and 4th days of fashion week took place? Exactly, in Pátio da Galé! Remember when I was 11 years old I told you that the doors in the building were too high? In fact, it was just a child's perception, the doors are not that big. But the events are equally exciting and special.

Wearing a full-skirt scarlet dress and a purple bracelet that read “ModaLisboa-Singular”, off I went for a day full of fashion shows and immense creativity.

Before I tell you everything in detail I will outline my day, which has no day of the week or month, it was the third day of ModaLisboa | Lisboa Fashion Week.

My day started with the joint fashion show of two brands by young designers from the Workstation platform - Mestre Studio and Arndes. Then came the true marathon of fashion show, every hour, with the fashion shows by: Carlos Gil, Kolovrat and Buzina x Tous. I interrupted this exciting and magnificent day to recharge with a Margherita pizza at the restaurant right next to the entrance, of course I wasn't going to stray too far. I couldn't miss Ricardo Andrez's show, to think about the new additions to my closet. Ending the day with the presentation of Luís Carvalho's collection.

Are you ready for me to tell you everything? From my point of view, this is how it happened:

“In this show, there is a clear maturity in aesthetics given the techniques used. Conquering even more his own aesthetic identity.” This is what I had in my notes… And I would keep writing about all of this, until I read… until I read about where “Before you forget me” csme from. There is no way to select what I quote to write to you, because I know that every word will move you as much as it moves me, so you put it in quotation marks and I write them here for you, the extent of what I write is irrelevant now:

“Before you forget me” refers to a photograph by Adelaide Khaled, with the same name. The designer's grandparents are present in the photograph, in a portrait that was taken with the intention of capturing one last time the essence of someone, who, due to Alzheimer's, would inevitably forget their own.

The “before” and “after”, when, when we no longer have something, we are forced to resort to memories, sometimes in the form of clothes. Open the old closet and find the moth-eaten knitted cardigans, shake off the dust and feel the faded wool threads, smelling of lavender, in your hands. The old cookie tin full of buttons, Singer's worn gilt on the marquee window, the knitting needles stored in the doily drawer, all of these invoke memories, invoke people and their history. This collection is an ode to those who are no longer present, but also to those who still surround us, as if to say, “I won’t forget you.”

Arndes found her style very early on and established her visual language. Taking tailoring concepts and great pattern making as a starting point. In this collection, she added boldness to all this, in transparencies and with a wink at surrealism and the ready-made in this “Collectionism” of yours. How? With objects such as sunglasses, photographs, perfume and/or nail polish bottles, handwritten notes and even identification cards.

Carlos Gil presented an extensive collection that could almost be divided into sections or mini collections. And even though it continues issues that it had already begun to explore, such as total denim looks, and does not abandon the silhouettes that are characteristic of it, it still innovates in relation to previous collections.

And, in this Fantasy of his, he combines the values ​​of his region with manual know-how:

“Based in Fundão, a region known for its spirit of mutual help, welcoming and solidarity, Carlos Gil integrated into his team experts, of Indian origin, in embroidery with beads, whose mastery adds a unique touch to this season's pieces.”

Lidja Kolovrat gave us proof that Portuguese identity is not exclusive to those born in Portuguese territory. The Bosnian-born designer is Portuguese, without a shadow of a doubt. His collection, which is, in fact, an independent heart, responds decisively and, although not intentionally, to the speeches of the Portuguese right that question the legitimacy of Portuguese emigration in the country. In addition to music, the inspiration in Amália Rodrigues extends to the proposals presented or perhaps this is the perception of an “Amalian”. But where are these references? In the light structures of the structures of voluminous skirts and silhouettes.

This was undoubtedly an emotional interpretation of Portugal and Lidija Kolovrat's Portuguese experience. Not only for herself, but also for us, who were present. I still can't get the necklaces with the magnificent independent heart pendant out of my head.

It wasn't just at the show that the Portuguese brand Buzina collaborated with the owner of the most ironic bear in the world - the Spanish brand Tous. In this collection Vera Fernandes gave, not a blank canvas, but one in terracotta tones to this symbol of the democratization of jewelry and which constituted a legacy of mastery for generations.

Buzina does not change its characteristics, in terms of shapes, volumes or silhouettes. And Tous presents the Portuguese market, which is always keeping an eye on Lisbon Fashion Week, with its bolder side. Confirming the versatility of its Hold concept, with rings in different shapes presented in XXL size with 18K gold plating with pendants that add onyx to the equation.

Ricardo Andrez's collection is always made up of pieces that I want to wear. And as if that wasn't enough, red was the protagonist, a color I can't resist. Andrez even converts me into a denim fan.

And if the eyelets are already a detail that characterizes the designer, the experimentation does not end in any collection, much less in “And suddenly, your scroll down is over”. Where the approach to the female body is relaxed and concepts of femininity redefined without fear.

Those who have always argued that thinking about fashion means thinking about the body, in this collection also argues that:

“We are not a brand. We are not a company. We are human beings.

Of course this is going to change every 30 seconds. We are just going about our lives.”

Luís Carvalho once again expands our cultural lexicon with photography, namely, drawing inspiration from Bastiaan Woudt. It approaches chromatic contrasts in a way that captivates and fascinates us, between black and white, the highlight of yellow that grabs us and surrounds us, and takes us to pastel tones of pink and blue.

We never look down because this “Round & Around” collection won't let us go - why?

For me, it is impossible to resist the seduction of circular inserts, the polka-dot pattern and the celebration of the “art of duality in design”.

By making your thanks clear in the press release, it proves that the saying “it takes a village” also applies to Fashion.

For me, the last day of this edition of Lisbon Fashion Week was shorter than I would have liked and than usual. But you know that, sometimes, life gets in the way of Fashion and tries to get in the way, so solutions are designed, I would never miss a day of ModaLisboa, right?

Ready? Get ready, I'm going to transport you to the magic I experienced.

Which fashion shows did I attend on this 4th day ? I was in the second row, with a privileged view of the entry and exit of the mannequins on the catwalk, of the DuarteHajime, Luís Onofre, Hibu and Luís Buchinho fashion shows.

If you think I've already mapped out all the highlights of this fourth act for you, you're wrong... Why? Because for me, it started at Locke de Santa Joana, in the best Portuguese Design pop-up store, the one that, in a unique way, that was part of this ModaLisboa. What did I bring with me? Finally, the much-desired Ricardo Andrez coat. A beautiful denim jacket that I plan to debut on my birthday.

Back to Terreiro do Paço and Pátio da Galé, bracelet on top, special photo during the day and kisses without lipstick. And now, yes, let's talk about the fashion shows. Anyone who thinks that the beginning of the Duarte brand's fashion show was a mere performance is mistaken, it was a rethinking and questioning of the manufacturing and modeling process itself. In the midst of his most established, but never repeated, streetwear; explored:

“mythological creatures, guardians, patterns, Blue Dragon (Seiryu), White Tiger (Byakko), Black Tortoise (Genbu); Red Bird of the South (Suzaku).”

I know that society's clichés dictate that all women are passionate about shoes. Not that this is entirely untrue, but I feel like I'm not impartial or knowledgeable enough to talk about shoes.

Lack of exemption, because my relationship with shoes is very marked by practical factors associated with having a disability. And not knowing or being able to wear high heel shoes.

Knowledge, in the sense of not knowing how to do it, obviously. I don't know the process of making shoes as I do the process of a fashion collection under the clothing product.

Therefore, to talk about this show and inherent collection I have to rely on the designer's intentions in sending his message. When quoted by ModaLisboa about what inspires him, the designer says:

“Desire models are sexy shoes created to achieve an even greater expression when worn. They are visually very appealing.”

Hibu brought us engaging performance as background to the basics we all desire. Even if they are not basics in the consensual concept that we associate with basic pieces, but because they will become part of every outfit we wear and are potential protagonists in many wardrobes.

Want proof that it was the designer's idea? Well, here it is:

“Once again, HIBU Studio seeks to redefine essential concepts, creating a collection that elevates timeless basics. It mixes classic silhouettes with distinctive details and the aesthetics of the 1990s, creating pieces that resonate nostalgia and modernity, but also versatility and durability.”

Luís Buchinho traveled back in time to draw inspiration from 80s graphic design, as well as neo-romantic tribes, pop bands and the bandanas in vogue at the time.

In the behavior of materials and molds, the conceptually based bandanas shine through. However, they highlight the pleats that bring the pieces to life, flattering them from head to toe.

And now? I think I can now explore other Fashion things , because I've already shared what I saw and experienced, because Fashion is also emotion. And when it comes to emotions you have to savor them as much as possible, so that with these you can find others.

With these letters concluded, you have to wait for what the next editions of The Fashion Standup will bring.

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